Travelling First Class On A Second Class Ticket: Najran, Saudi Arabia

Najran, capital of the eponymous Saudi region, lies in the extreme south of the country just inland from the Asir Mountains and close to the Yemen border. It's always been a troubled area. It was the centre of pre-islamic christianity in the region until they were massacred by their Jewish neighbours from Yemen 1,500 years ago. The locals are all Shia muslims which is at odds with, but tolerated by, the Wahabist rulers of Saudi. Saudi jets last attacked Houthi rebels on the border in 2009 (one of my hosts in Najran recalled being woken by the explosions).

Saudi Arabia is a huge country (about two thirds the size of India) but is well served by airports. The most expensive internal return flight is less than one hundred pounds. Riyadh to Najran only takes just over an hour.

As we flew in I kept wondering when the mountains would start. I knew it was high up (4,000 feet) but as we came in to land it was clear that this wasn't a rocky mountainous area, more a high level desert.

I was visiting Najran on a business trip but managed to tag the weekend on to stay and explore the area. I was looked after by some English teachers from the University of Najran who were very welcoming and generous hosts.

After checking in to the Crown Hotel which like everything in Najran, lies on the 15 km long 'high street', I went for a wander in the farm area between the town and the wadi. What struck me most was how many of the buildings were similar to the Yemeni mud 'skyscrapers'.

Yemeni influence on Saudi architecture

Thick walls keep out the summer heat

Doors to some of the larger houses also follow the decorative style that Yemen is famous for.

Decorative door

In the evening my hosts took me to a 'dance'. It was all male of course and a chance for the men to let their hair down and for the drummers (usually employed for weddings) to practice. It was held in a purpose built open air hall just outside town and the doors were locked once we were all inside, another sign that what happens in Najran is mildly tolerated but a little different from normal Saudi rules. I was also asked not to take photos of the men the men who were dancing.