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Showing posts with label Najran. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Najran. Show all posts

Friday, January 13, 2012

Najran, Saudi Arabia

Najran, capital of the eponymous Saudi region, lies in the extreme south of the country just inland from the Asir Mountains and close to the Yemen border.  It's always been a troubled area. It was the centre of pre-islamic christianity in the region until they were massacred by their Jewish neighbours from Yemen 1,500 years ago. The locals are all Shia muslims which is at odds with, but tolerated by, the Wahabist rulers of Saudi. Saudi jets last attacked Houthi rebels on the border in 2009 (one of my hosts in Najran recalled being woken by the explosions).

Saudi Arabia is a huge country (about two thirds the size of India) but is well served by airports. The most expensive internal return flight is less than one hundred pounds. Riyadh to Najran only takes just over an hour.

As we flew in I kept wondering when the mountains would start. I knew it was high up (4,000 feet) but as we came in to land it was clear that this wasn't a rocky mountainous area, more a high level desert.

I was visiting Najran on a business trip but managed to tag the weekend on to stay and explore the area. I was looked after by some English teachers from the University of Najran who were very welcoming and generous hosts.

After checking in to the Crown Hotel which like everything in Najran, lies on the 15 km long 'high street', I went for a wander in the farm area between the town and the wadi. What struck me most was how many of the buildings were similar to the Yemeni mud 'skyscrapers'.

Yemeni influence on Saudi architecture

Thick walls keep out the summer heat

Doors to some of the larger houses also follow the decorative style that Yemen is famous for.

Decorative door

In the evening my hosts took me to a 'dance'. It was all male of course and a chance for the men to let their hair down and for the drummers (usually employed for weddings) to practice. It was held in a purpose built open air hall just outside town and the doors were locked once we were all inside, another sign that what happens in Najran is mildly tolerated but a little different from normal Saudi rules. I was also asked not to take photos of the men the men who were dancing.

The dancers were a bit camera shy

The drums were tightened over the fire

Two drummers... relaxing














Wednesday, December 14, 2011

My Saudi bucket list

I plan to start spreading my wings in January. Saudi is a big old country and not many people get the chance to visit here. Internal flights are cheap so this is my bucket list of places to visit while I am here:

1. Mada'in Saleh
Ancient city of the Nabetean people who built Petra in Jordan. Includes over 100 rock carved tombs with ornate facades set deep in the desert.

2. Jeddah
The old town features ancient merchants houses built of coral blocks overlooking the Red Sea.

3. Dir'aiyah
Ancient mud city of the Saud tribe just outside Riyadh.

4. Jubbah
Ancient rock paintings of animals in the middle of the Namud Desert.

5. Rajajil
Known as 'Saudi's stonehenge'. An area of ancient standing stones near the Jordanian border.

6. Habalah
The 'hanging city' built into a 300 m high cliff face in the southern mountains.

7. Al Soudah
The Black Mountain. The highest peak in the kingdom.

8. Najran
Much like Yemen which is just over the border, there are many 'mud skyscrapers' in a large oasis.

9. Janadriyah Festival
Massive folk festival held every February just north of Riyadh.

10. Abha
Mountain top town in the south with busy market and old stone houses.